There are varied methods for adding pockets to an item or a garment. Generally, there are two very common types of pockets: the side seam pockets and the front pockets.
Pockets basically have a back and a front part. If pockets are directly sewn onto the front of the shirt, the inside of the pocket is the shirt front. If pockets are sewn on the side seam of a skirt, the front part is the front of the pocket, while its back is created by sewing in a pocket.
The upper edges of pockets are normally made stronger by adding facings and interfacings. These are very important especially if the pockets are on the back of pants or even on shirts. Pockets may also be added with lining to provide a better finish.
Side Seam Pockets
The first thing that you might want to consider with side seam pockets is to add extensions. If you wish to have an additional side seam pocket, try drawing an extension on sides of the skirt. The extensions will serve as the facings for the pockets. The hand of the user should comfortably extend so make sure to measure half an inch on the extension.
Before you decide what shape of pockets you want to add, it is helpful that you draw the design that you have in mind. The pockets should be large enough for the hands to nicely fit and they should come about two inches below and above the extensions.
In reinforcing and clipping facings, start by stitching on all the side of the corners of the facings. Clip the facings from the edge but make sure not to cut your stitching. Press this facing under. To reinforce it, sew a box along its edges.
Follow the procedure by stitching the pocket on the skirt front. The right part of the pocket should be stitched on the wrong side of the skirt front, just around the curved edge. Once done, stitch the skirt front to the skirt back. Make sure you do it on the side seams. Be careful not to allow the pocket edge to be sewn into the seam. Your pocket now is residing just within the side seam. The skirt front, however, shows the stitching of the pockets.
Shirt Type Pockets
Start making shirt type pockets by cutting rectangular pieces. Decide the size that you want on your pocket but make sure to add half an inch of extra fabric for the upper hem. Make room also for seam allowances on the three remaining sides. Follow it up by ironing under the three lower edges, as well as the hem. Topstitch the upper hem into place after you turn the pocket to the right side.
Place the pocket on the front of the shirt and make sure that its right side up. Stitch it onto the shirt around the three lower sides. Be sure to leave the top pocket open. To make it more durable, enhance the pocket with some reinforcement stitching.
What Patch Pockets Are
Patch pockets are commonly used not only for decorations but also for functions on jackets, blouses and shirts. In preparing patch pockets, cut the pockets as instructed by the pattern. These types of pockets are generally cut on the lengthwise grain. But still, the bias-cut pocket can still be used on plaid and striped fabrics to prevent it from matching with the fabric design.
Interfacing helps retain the pockets shape. If you go for a fusible interfacing, before you fuse it in place, cut it to the finished pocket size. If you consider the sew-in interfacing, cut them by the pocket patterns, stay-stitch them in place before finally trimming them close to the stay stitching. You need not interface the hem, though.
TIP: Pocket templates can be cut from cardboard and are effectively used as guides when pressing pockets into the proper shapes. Lay your template on the wrong side of the pocket before pressing the seam allowance in place over your template.
Assembling pockets can be confusing especially if you don't have the right knowledge. Although difficult, the tasks can be made easy if you take time to go over the basic steps needed for pocket assembly.
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